Are porcelain tiles safe for outdoor use?

Eazi Business • 8 January 2023

The use of outdoor porcelain tiles in the UK is becoming increasingly common place. One customer asked us how these might be made safer / nonslip.

The use of outdoor porcelain tiles in the UK is becoming increasingly common place. One customer asked us how these might be made safer / nonslip.


There are a few ways of achieving this result. To make outdoor porcelain tiles non-slip:


1.          Use tiles with a textured or matte finish: These types of finishes have a rougher surface that provides more traction, making it less likely for people to slip.


2.          Apply a non-slip coating to the tiles: There are several products on the market that can be applied to the surface of the tiles to increase their slip resistance.


3.          Use an anti-slip tape or adhesive strips: These can be applied to the surface of the tiles to provide an additional layer of traction.


4.          Use area mats: Placing rubber mats on top of the tiles can help to add some additional grip to the surface. You will have seen these in swimming pool areas and changing rooms.


It's also important to make sure that the tiles are properly installed and that the surface they are laid on is even and stable. If the tiles are not level or if the surface beneath them is uneven, it can increase the risk of slipping.

 

More about non-slip coatings for porcelain tiles.


There are several products on the market that can be used to apply a non-slip coating to outdoor porcelain tiles. These coatings typically work by creating a rough surface on the tiles that provides additional traction, making it less likely for people to slip.


To apply a non-slip coating to outdoor porcelain tiles, you will need to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific product you are using. In general, the process will involve:


1.          Cleaning the tiles thoroughly to remove any dirt, debris, or other contaminants.


2.          Sanding the surface of the tiles to create a rough texture that will help the coating to adhere better.


3.          Applying the non-slip coating according to the manufacturer's instructions. This may involve using a brush, roller, or sprayer to apply the coating to the tiles.


4.          Allowing the coating to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions.

It's important to note that not all non-slip coatings are suitable for use on outdoor porcelain tiles. You should check the manufacturer's instructions and make sure that the product you are using is suitable for this type of application.

 

Examples of products


Here are a few examples of non-slip coatings that may be suitable for use on outdoor porcelain tiles:

1.          SlipDoctors Non-Slip Coating: This water-based coating is designed for use on tiles, concrete, and other surfaces. It creates a rough, slip-resistant surface when it dries.


2.          SafetyGrip Solutions Anti-Slip Coating: This coating is suitable for use on a variety of surfaces, including tiles, concrete, and wood. It creates a rough, slip-resistant surface that is resistant to water, oil, and other contaminants.


3.          Krylon Non-Skid Coating: This spray-on coating is designed for use on a variety of surfaces, including tiles, metal, and wood. It creates a rough, non-slip surface when it dries.


4.          Rust-Oleum Anti-Slip Spray: This spray-on coating is suitable for use on a variety of surfaces, including tiles, metal, and wood. It creates a rough, slip-resistant surface when it dries.


It's important to note that these are just a few examples of the many non-slip coatings that are available on the market. You should always read the manufacturer's instructions and ensure that the product you are using is suitable for your specific needs.


by Niket Kapur 15 April 2026
I visited a property recently where a client was on the verge of handing over close to £1 million to a contractor for a substantial refurbishment and fit-out project. On the surface, everything appeared to be in order. The contractor presented well, spoke confidently, and had already undertaken a couple of projects. However, as part of my due diligence, I carried out some background checks. What emerged was concerning. Only a few months earlier, the contractor had been operating in a completely different line of work — car valeting. His move into construction was recent, and his experience at this level was extremely limited. At that point, the situation changed entirely. The Real Issue There is nothing inherently wrong with someone entering a new industry or building a business from the ground up. Many competent builders have developed their skills over time. The issue is this: does the scale and complexity of your project match the contractor’s experience and capability? Construction is not forgiving. Mistakes are costly, delays are disruptive, and rectifying poor work is often far more expensive than doing it properly in the first place. Too often, clients assume that someone else has carried out the necessary checks. In reality, that responsibility usually falls on no one. The Corporate Veil – A Hidden Risk One area that is often overlooked is the protection afforded to contractors through the corporate structure they operate under. In many cases, the contract is with a limited company. That company may have minimal assets, a short trading history, and limited financial resilience. If things go wrong, the practical ability to recover losses can be severely restricted. This is not unusual. It is simply how many businesses are structured. However, it does mean that clients can be exposed if the position is not properly understood at the outset. As part of our process, we treat this as a key risk factor. We look at the underlying entity, its history, and its financial standing, and we build in safeguards to reduce exposure. These safeguards may include tighter payment structures, verification of insurances, clarity on contractual responsibilities, and ensuring that risk is not disproportionately carried by the client. What We Checked Insurance: public liability, employers’ liability, contract works, adequacy of cover, and policy wording. · Public liability insurance · Employers’ liability insurance · Contract works insurance · Appropriate level of cover for a £1 million project · Policy wording covers the proposed works Track Record: evidence of completed projects and comparability in scale. · Evidence of completed projects · Comparable scale and complexity · Verification of claims made Competence and Delivery: who is actually carrying out the work. · Established team or reliance on subcontractors · Management of subcontractors Specialist Works: structural, electrical, mechanical and critical elements. · Relevant qualifications and certifications Financial Standing: ability to sustain a project of this size. · Exposure to cashflow pressure What Could Have Gone Wrong · Large sums paid out early with limited protection · Inability to complete the project · Insurance failing to respond to claims · Poor workmanship with little recourse · Delays, disputes, and escalating costs What We Did · Alerted the client immediately · Restructured payment arrangements · Verified and strengthened insurance cover · Clarified scope and responsibilities · Reassessed contractor suitability Key Takeaways for Homeowners · Do not rely on presentation or confidence alone · Match experience to project scale · Verify insurance properly · Be cautious of recent trade changes · Understand who will deliver the work · Take independent advice before committing funds A Final Thought Most projects do not start as disasters. They begin with optimism, trust, and a desire to move forward. A relatively small amount of time spent reviewing the position properly can prevent significant cost, delay, and stress later. The Building Guidance Partnership  www.thebgp.co.uk
by Niket Kapur 10 April 2026
Introduction In many residential projects, the garden is left until the very end. It is often not properly planned, rarely designed or engineered, and in most cases receives little or no supervision. As a result, important structural elements such as retaining walls are treated as simple landscaping features rather than engineered structures. Many contractors either omit drainage entirely or introduce it later as an additional cost, often charging significantly more once the need becomes apparent. This is where problems begin. The Real Issue: Water, Not Soil A retaining wall is not simply holding back soil. It is holding back water pressure within the soil. When soil becomes saturated: - Its weight increases significantly - It begins to exert hydrostatic pressure - Stability reduces over time - Pressure builds continuously behind the wall This process is gradual and often invisible. The wall may appear sound initially, but over time you may see: - Cracking - Bulging or bowing - Leaning - Eventual structural failure Why a French Drain Is Critical A French drain is the primary system used to manage water behind a retaining wall. What it consists of: - A perforated pipe positioned at the base of the wall - Clean, free-draining gravel surrounding the pipe - A geotextile membrane to prevent clogging - A suitable fall leading to a safe discharge point What it does: - Intercepts groundwater before it builds pressure - Channels water away from the structure - Keeps the retained soil in a stable condition Key point: If water is not actively removed, it will accumulate. If it accumulates, it will apply pressure. If pressure builds, the wall will eventually fail. The Role of Weep Holes Weep holes provide an additional layer of protection. Their purpose: - Allow trapped water to escape through the wall - Relieve pressure locally - Provide visible confirmation that drainage is working Common mistakes: - Not installing them at all - Incorrect spacing - Blocking them with soil or debris - No gravel filter behind the opening Important: Weep holes are not a replacement for a French drain. They are a secondary safeguard, not the primary system. How a Proper System Works A well-constructed retaining wall should include: - Free-draining granular backfill - A correctly installed geotextile membrane - A perforated pipe at the base (French drain) - Weep holes through the wall - A clearly defined discharge point Each component plays a role. Omitting any one of them weakens the entire system. Common Issues Seen on Site From practical experience, the most frequent problems include: - No drainage provision at all - Use of clay or poor-quality backfill - No fall in the drainage pipe - No defined outlet for water - Retrofitted solutions after early signs of failure - Drainage added later as a costly extra These are not minor oversights. They are fundamental design failures. A Simple Way to Think About It A retaining wall behaves like a small dam. - The wall provides strength - The drainage system controls pressure Relying on the wall alone without managing water is not a safe or durable approach. Practical Advice for Homeowners Before any retaining wall is built, you should: - Ask how water behind the wall will be managed - Request a section detail drawing - Confirm: • Type of backfill being used • Drainage pipe specification and gradient • Location of discharge point • Weep hole spacing and detailing Avoid accepting vague assurances. This is a critical structural element. Final Thought Most retaining wall failures are entirely preventable. The cost of installing proper drainage at the outset is modest. The cost of repairing or rebuilding a failed wall is not. This is not an upgrade. It is a necessity. Next Steps If you are planning a retaining wall or reviewing one already constructed: - Ensure drainage is properly designed before work begins - Check installation during construction, not afterwards  - Seek advice early if there are signs of movement or cracking Careful coordination at this stage can prevent significant cost, disruption, and risk later.
by Niket Kapur 10 April 2026
Not all good lighting requires complex systems. Some of the most effective improvements come from very simple measures. One of these is the use of PIR (passive infrared) sensors. They detect movement and turn lights on automatically. Used properly, they can improve convenience, enhance safety, reduce energy use, and add a layer of security. What Is a PIR Sensor? A PIR sensor detects movement and changes in heat (body presence). When triggered, it turns lights on and switches them off after a set period. They can be used internally and externally. Internal Use: Practical, Everyday Benefits Hands-Free Lighting · Ideal for kitchens, utility rooms and pantries · Lights come on automatically when hands are full Gentle Night-Time Lighting · Bathrooms, hallways and landings · Low-level lighting avoids disturbing sleep · Improves safety at night Circulation Spaces · Corridors and staircases · Improves safety and convenience · Reduces need for multiple switches External Use: Security and Guidance Security Lighting · Deters intruders · Lights activate only when movement is detected Guiding Movement Around the Home · Paths, side access and bins · Safe and convenient movement · No need for manual switching Design Considerations · Correct positioning is critical · Avoid unnecessary triggering · Set appropriate sensitivity and timing · Use comfortable light levels Do Not Overcomplicate It PIR sensors are inexpensive, easy to install and highly effective without complex systems. Final Thought Sometimes the simplest solutions make the biggest difference. PIR lighting is one of those. Next Steps If you are planning a renovation or upgrade, consider where automatic lighting would genuinely improve daily use and how it can be integrated simply and effectively.